With his background, Reavis is the ideal pitmaster to push barbecue beyond its hidebound impulses. As a native son of Emporia, Va., just 10 miles or so from the North Carolina border, Reavis has an easy affinity for pork. Yet his approach to preparing pork butts — the “money muscle” — borrows from time-honored smoking traditions and modern chef techniques. After the pork bathes in wood smoke for 12 hours, Reavis pulls the meat and hits it with a North Carolina sauce, a kaleidoscopic condiment that rotates from sweetness to acidity to heat, over and over again. He’ll then vacuum-seal the combination, allowing the vinegar, fat and smoke to fuse into a kind of pulled-pork vinaigrette. It’s unforgettable.